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Troubleshooting Guide
You will be pleased with the strength, flexibility and natural appearance of a new set of en Vogue nails. After 2 or 3 fills you will have a balance between length, thickness, and client lifestyle. Therefore, it is important for a client to make regular appointments for refills. Make recommendations to your client in regards to proper maintenance, i.e. nails are not tools, keep nails clean, and choose the right length. en Vogue Nail System's products can be customized to the client for optimum strength and elegance.
Cause:
Stirring around in product
Jar upside down
“Patting” or “swirling” product during application
Correction/Prevention:
Take product carefully (onto the gel brush) from jar
When applying product poke into air bubbles and pull out with light strokes
Pull & drag product when applying
BROKEN NATURAL NAIL/CRACKS ACROSS STRESS AREA
Cause:
C-curve too flat
Wrong tip
Nails filed too narrow
Client hit nail very hard
Too long between fill (c-curve grown out to create stress)
Correction/Prevention:
Ensure thicker C-curve when applying en Vogue product
Shorten nails - free edge should never be longer than nail bed (recommended length: 1/3 - 2/3 of nail bed)
Match tip shape to natural nail form - for flat nails use a flat tip, for arched nail use an arched tip
File nails straight along nail groove, do not taper too narrow at free edge
Suggest shorter nails to accommodate client lifestyle
Follow Application for Repair
BUMPS ON NAILS/WAVES IN FINISHED PRODUCT
Cause:
Filed nail unevenly
Sealer applied too thick, causing it to pool
Dust particles left on nails
Not feeling the nail after buffing
Not looking from all angles
Correction/Prevention:
Always check nails while filling & dust well
Look and feel from all angles
Check C-curve and arch
Check the Sealer did not run BEFORE putting hands in the light
File away bumps, dust well, wipe with Prep & Clean - reapply Sealer and cure in light
Cause:
Product is lifting
Base of tip not blended in properly
Product did not cure completely
Not cleaning brush after French Fill Application
Correction/Prevention:
Clean your brush after you apply French Modeling or Ultra White Fill
Use your dust brush often when filing down base of tip, blend in well for natural appearance
When fills are done, make sure any lifting or loose product is filed away
Ensure client places entire hand in light for full 2 minutes.
Wipe nail with Prep & Clean after filing, make sure nail is completely dry before applying product
CRACKS IN PRODUCT AT SIDE CORNERS
Cause:
Applied product too thin at sides
Overfiling sides, making them too thin
Client waited too long for fill, therefore, C-curve has grown out causing great stress on sides
Correction/Prevention:
Develop proper C-curve, making sure not to file into sides
Educate client on importance of regular maintenance
File crack down to natural nail, remove shine, wipe with Prep & Clean, follow Application for Repair using fibreglass only if extra strength is required
DAMAGED NATURAL NAIL/PINKISH-RED PATCHES ON NAIL PLATE (Hot Spots)
Cause:
Filing on natural nail with too coarse of a file (i.e. 80 or 100 grit)
Filing too long on one spot of natural nail or on an angle
Client picking off artificial nail
Client hitting nail extremely hard, tip breaks off, removing layer of natural nail
Correction/Prevention:
Only buff natural nail with fine file (i.e. 240 grit file) to remove all shine
Always rotate over natural nail when filing - never file too long on one spot
Explain to client that picking nails will weaken them. If needed, they can buff away lifted area
Keep nails at a workable length for very active clients
Follow “Repair” Application to reinforce weakened nail and protect weak spots on nails. Pink discoloration (thin nail plate) will grow out. If sidewalls are filed thin, integrate fibreglass gauze for extra support.
Cause:
Too much file pressure when blending in product creates “Hot Spots” in new growth
Filing into natural nail when blending in product
Lifted area not properly removed before fill
Improper use of electric files
Correction/Prevention:
Ensure a thin application of product around cuticle area
Blend artificial nail into natural nail with 180 grit files. Making sure not to file on an angle
Do not apply heavy pressure as this will bend the natural nail and cause the product to lift more
Push back cuticle and buff natural nail gently, file all lifting off the natural nail before applying product
Use electric files carefully after professional instruction
Cause:
Not enough product
Over filing
Arch built in wrong area; should be built along stress area
Flat tip chosen vs. curved tip
Correction/Prevention:
Buff shine and use a thicker product application or more coats
File product thinner at cuticle and free edge, creating proper arch
Turn finger and look at from all profiles when applying and filing product
Cause:
Filing on an angle and cutting into product at the sides
Forms not applied correctly
Too small of tip used
Correction/Prevention:
Re-apply form and add more product to fill in any glitches
May be corrected by just simply adding product to area
Ensure proper fit of forms and double check proper product application before removing form
Make sure tips fit sidewall to sidewall
HEAT SENSATION WHILE CURING IN LAMP
Cause:
Product applied too thick
Client hypersensitive
Nail plate very thin or damaged (see “rings of fire”)
Certain medications increase susceptibility
(i.e. oral contraceptive, antibiotics, anti-inflammatory)
Hormonal changes
Correction/Prevention:
Do not apply product too thick
Apply thinner coats of product - possibly 3 thin coats. Client should remove hand from light for 5 to 10 seconds, allowing nail to cool, return hand to light and continue curing
If removal is required more than 2 or 3 times cure twice to ensure complete curing
Cause:
Too much glue
Not enough drying time
Correction/Prevention:
Do not overuse glue as base of tip; it could erode when blending in
Let air-dry for 1 or 2 minutes, finish with high grit file
Cause:
Product cured over cuticle
Oils left on nail; improper nail preparation
Product too thick around cuticle
Too much Connector
Nails still moist from Prep & Clean
Correction/Prevention:
Always check nails before curing in light; keep product from direct cuticle contact
Ensure removal of all dry cuticle and oil on natural nail
Don’t push large amounts of product to cuticle area
Keep cuticle area as thin as possible
Carefully buff away lifted product
Allow Prep & Clean to completely dry before applying product.
Make sure sculpting brush is completely dry
Make sure Connector is not shiny
LIFTING BETWEEN TIP & OUTGROWING NATURAL NAIL
Cause:
Air bubble when gluing tips
Extremely porous natural nails
Client has hands in water frequently
High moisture content in nails
Too little glue used
Correction/Prevention:
Ensure proper fit of tip i.e. flat nail, flat tip - arched nail, arched tip
Press firmly when gluing, apply even pressure
Base of tip never more than 1/2 never less than 1/3 of natural nail plate
If client has hands in water frequently, use French Modeling Resin with forms, rather than tips.
Remove tip but keep existing free edge of natural nail, file down product to natural nail - follow Application with Forms
LIFTING AT FREE EDGE BETWEEN PRODUCT & NATURAL NAIL
Cause:
Nails were not sealed at free edge
Client shortened nails in-between fills using an improper file angle
Product too thin at free edge
Correction/Prevention:
Always wrap product around free edge
Product should be about 3 times the thickness of natural nail at the free edge
Advise client to seal free edge with clear polish
Buff away any loose product, wipe with Prep & Clean, use nail form, apply product, extend slightly over free edge
When shaping free edge, file on an angle to keep the length of product longer than the natural nail.
NATURAL FREE EDGE VISIBLE THRU FRENCH MODELING RESIN
Cause:
Not enough French Modeling Resin applied
Form or product moved / flowed before curing
Client has a very white free edge or very yellow free edge
Over filed, filing through whites
Correction/Prevention:
Apply French Modeling thicker
Use Ultra White for whiter free edge clients and Natural French for more yellow free edge clients
Ensure forms are fitted correctly and tightly under free edges
Always double check your work before putting hand into the light
Check nails before filing to see if product rolled under nail. That will alter your judgment of the thickness of the nail.
NATURAL NAIL LIFTING OFF NAIL BED (Onycholysis)
Cause:
Too small of tip or too curved of a tip squeezes nail and lifts of bed over time
Bacteria underneath natural nail
Client hit nail very hard and lifted natural nail off nail bed by separating hyponychium
Medications or an illness
Correction/Prevention:
Keep nails very clean by using nail brush daily
Apply anti-fungus treatment underneath nail twice daily until nail separation has grown out and is gone
Make sure you fit tip correctly. Must fit sidewall to sidewall with no pressure.
Refer to a Physician
Cause:
Careless application, product applied too thick near the cuticle
Taking too long before curing product in the light
Product may have become too warm and runny
Not double checking work before curing
Correction/Prevention:
Pull away from skin; try to file excess away. Place product closer to centre of the nail then guide towards cuticle
If you are slow at product application, apply product to 1 or 2 fingers at a time and cure, always double check before curing and wipe excess away with an orangewood stick
Cool down product to increase viscosity
Cause:
Oils left on nail
Product was applied too thick
Product not wrapped around free edge
Nail(s) still moist from Prep & Clean before application
Dust brush contaminated or has oils on it
Correction/Prevention:
Don’t touch nails after wiping with Prep & Clean
Don’t apply product too thick. If necessary work in thinner - if necessary more - layers.
Sealer & Colour Gel should be applied in a manner similar to polish
Sculpting brush and nail must be completely dry before applying product.
Replace dust brush. Do not dust nails after applying cuticle oil. Do not touch the bristles on the dust brush.
Cause:
Client no longer wishes to wear artificial nails
Solution/Procedure:
Shorten nails, then blend artificial nail into natural nail, apply hardener, let nails grow out
File artificial nails off, shorten natural nails, use a nail regenerating product daily for conditioning
If removal is due to an allergy, refer client to their physician
Cause:
Not glued on straight
Glued with air pockets
Noticeable cracks in tips or visible “stress lines”
Correction/Prevention:
Remove tip by soaking in acetone for 2 minutes and filing. Then buff off residue of tip and old glue, clean and apply a new tip
Ensure proper tip choice. Natural nail should be as short as possible before applying tip
Cause:
Brush has not been wiped with Prep & Clean after use and exposed to sunlight or other strong light source
Correction/Prevention:
Wipe brush with Prep & Clean
Do not expose to sunlight
Keep brush covered, away from all light
If gummy (not completely hardened), soak in acetone
Cause:
Sealer has been applied too thin
Sealer is contaminated
UV light too weak / bulbs need to be replaced
Dispersion film not completely removed
Hand not in light for full 2 minutes
Nail still moist from with Prep & Clean
Correction/Prevention:
Buff off Sealer, wipe nails with Prep & Clean, LET DRY. Re-apply a thicker layer of sealer
Make sure sculpting brush is dry before dipping into sealer
Ensure proper light source with fresh bulbs
Make sure lid is placed on product at all times
Cause:
Sealer was applied on oily base
Prep & Clean not completely dry before application
Correction/Prevention:
Wipe nails with Prep & Clean, using a lint free wipe, don’t touch after wiping
Make sure sculpting brush is dry before dipping into sealer
Make sure nails are dry of Prep & Clean before applying sealer
Buff nails with block buffer, dust, wipe with Prep & Clean, LET DRY. Reapply sealer
Cause:
Chose wrong tip
Did not prepare tip properly
Uneven pressure when applying
Glued tip on at wrong angle
Free edge of natural nail too long
Not enough glue
Correction/Prevention:
Ensure proper tip choice (i.e. flat nail, flat tip; arched nail - arched tip)
Trim base of tip according to shape of nail. Base of tip should not be more than 1/2, not less than 1/3 of natural nail plate
Keep an eye on free edge area of nail through tip, if air bubbles appear due to uneven pressure, quickly re-adjust
Keep natural nail as short as possible before applying tip
If air bubble is severe - remove tip and choose better fitting tip and reapply
TIP SPLITTING VERTICAL/STRESS LINES ON TIP
Cause:
Chose wrong tip
Shortened tip at wrong angle or with dull blade
Filed free edge too thin
Old tips
Too much pressure while customizing or while applying
Correction/Prevention:
Choose appropriate tip - flat nail - flat tip; arched nail - arched tip
Use tip cutter: or clip tip from sides with two cuts to prevent stress points on tip
Use less pressure when filing free edge (only remove shine)
If cracks are severe, file down tip and rebuild with a form
Product cures from bottom to top; heat sensation may occur within first 30 seconds
Refer to physician